Manufacturing of jewelry set with stones



June 27, 1-939.

I MANUFACTURING OF JEWELRY SET WITH STONES b. swARovsjKl 2,163,814

rFiled Aug. 29, 1936 l2 Sheets-She'et 1 June 27,1939.- D; SWAROVSKI "2,163,814

MANUFACTURING o F JEWELRY SET wml sToNEs Filed Aug. 29, 195s 2 sheets-sheet 2 @ja vyj 16 1 l, ./18 /7 Patented Juney 27, 1939 v UNITED STATES PATENT 'OFFICE MANUFACTURING F AJEWELRYy SET WITH STONES rol, Austria Application August 29, 193s, semi No. 98,459 InAustria September 4, 1935 15 Claims. (Cl. 18-42) This invention relates to improvements in manufacturing of jewelry set with stones by the method described in Letters Patent No. 1,997,500 and has for its object to prevent the stones inserted in the casting mould from becoming unintentionally altered in position or displaced during the pouring in or injecting of the embedding mass against thev stones secured in position at a much greater rate.

According to the invention the casting mould for producing the articles is provided with means for securing the desired position of the stones inserted in depressions of the mould during the in-y jection of the embedding mass in the mould. These means consist either in admission apertures in the mould'each situated coaxially with a stone ior pressing the stones against their seats by the mass itself or in fittings inserted in the mould or in pins arranged on the mould and facing the back of the stones.

The injection of the mass at a greater rate entails also the advantage that far less caution need be exercised, so that-a very considerable increase in the rate of manufacture can be achieved. Hithcrto'it has been impossible to use metals as the embedding mass since metals would have had a still greater tendency to bring about displacement of the stones during the moulding operation, on account of their greater weight and in consequence of the higher injecting velocity which is necessary on account of their readiness to congeal. The use of metals as embedding mass represents, however, an important advance in the art disclosed in Letters Patent No. 1,997,500, since metals are particularly fancied for the purpose `oi `mounting gems, and are eminently'suited for this purpose by reason of their strength and resistance, so that the stones can` be held in the 4metallic article only by twol short thin prongs produced during the casting operation.

With the above general objects in AView and others that will become apparent as the nature of the invention is better understood, the same consists especially in the novel form, combination and arrangement of parts hereinafter more fully described in connection with the accompanying drawing in which, I

Figs. 1, 2 and 3 are vertical sections of three different moulds for articles of jewelry in which, during the casting process', the embedding mass impinges directly upon the' stones inserted in the y mould and presses them againsttheir seats.

Fig. 4 isa perspective view of an article of jewelry cast in the mould shown in Fig. 3.'

Fig. 5 is a vertical section of a mould which apertures 4, and which are fed mass from a central aperture 1.

serves for the productionof articles of jewelry with stones mounted on fabric or a network of threads.

Figs. 6-9 are plan views of several articles of jewelry produced with the aid of similar moulds.

Fig. l0 is a vertical section of a mold showing a weighting member for the stones.

Fig. 11 is a perspective view, of the weighting member shown in Fig. 10.

Fig. 12 is a vertical section of a different mold containing a special holding member vpressed against the top of the mold cavity.

Fig. 13 is a perspective view of the holding member shown -in Fig. 12.

Fig. 14 is a vertical section of another mold provided with pins at the top of the mold cavity for pressing the stones into their sockets.

Fig. 15 is a vertical section of a slightly different mold wherein pins are yieldably mounted.

Fig'.'l6 is a vertical section of a stone and setting made in accordance with the invention, and Fig. 1'7 is a plan view of the same stone and setting.

` In the carrying out of the invention the stones I are inserted-in the lower part 2 of a twoor 2 multi-part mould which is provided with special depressions for this purpose. The upper part 3 of the mould is then fitted on, and the embedding mass injected or poured in through apertures 4 in the mould, special precautions being taken to ensure that the stones do not alter their position or become displaced during the casting process. The result is achieved in the simplest manner by directing` the iiow of the poured or injected embedding mass in such a manner that the mass impinges on each stone in the direction of its main axis and presses it against its seating. In the case of moulds in which only one stone is inserted the pouring .or injecting aperture is for this purpose disposed immediately over the stone (Fig. l). If the moulds are complicated construction, and if there be a larger number of stones inserted in theirlower part the upper part of the mould is provided with a plurality of pouring apertures corresponding to the number of stones present, so that there is an aperture 4 over each stone (Fig. 2). In a cover portion 5 situated above the part 3 there are provided distributing passages 6 which lead to the individual with embedding The same type of construction with distributing passages may be employed in conjunction with moulds which serve for the simultaneous production of a plurality of articles of jewelry each set with a single stone (Fig. 3). If there be inserted in the moulds fittings intended to serve later on as parts of fasteners for the article of jewelry these fitting Amay also be' made use of during the casting process for securing the stones in position. More.

particularly iittings such as rods -8 (Fig. 3) and the like which are removed from the a-rticles of jewelry again after the casting operation, and which only serve to form recesses. eyes, or passages 9 (Fig. 4) inthese articles, may be employed for the holding fast of the stones during the casting operation.

In producing articles of jewelry in which fabrics, network I of threads, or threads II serve as carriers for individual stones embedded in the mass secured to the carrier by means of the mass the procedure may be to insert the network before the pouring of the mass into the mould in such a manner that the individual stones are therebyheld fast in position. With such moulds the feed flow of the embedding mass may of course also be directed axially against the stones (Fig. With such articles of jewelry, .which are employed either in the form of stringsvor chains, more or less wide bands, or sheets of material s'et all'over with gems (Figs. 6 9) speeding up the manufacture is only possible, on account of the large number oi stones to be embedded, provided the stones be reliably held fast against any displacement.'

If there is no possibility of xing the stones by means of elements already introduced for other purpose into the mould it isadvisable to hold them by means of special inserted holding members I2 (Fig. 10). made from the same material as the jewelry, so that they form a unitary, homogeneous body with the embedding mass. The inserted holding members are provided with recesses I3 corresponding to the arrangement of the stones in the finished article of jewelry, and are further provided, between these recesses, with gaps I4 which allow the embedding mass to penetrate through and to become 4readily distributed within the mould. 'Ihe inserted holding members are placed in position upon the stones and rest upon them with their dead weight. During the casting operation the jet of in-owing embedding mass is directed against the holding members and presses them down, so that the stones are more iirmly held against their seats. If this does not afford suicient security against displacement of thestones the inserted holding members are provided with small pegs I5 which bear against the upper part of the mould and thereby render displacement impossible (Figs. 12 and 13). pegs I5 may also be made resilient.

In order to avoid the use of` separate inserted holding members the stones may also be pressed against their seating depressions by means of small cylindrical pins I6 (Fig. 14) which extend downwards from the wall of the upper part of the mould. This extremely simple mode of fixing the stones dos, it is true, entail the production by.

the pinv I6 of a slight depression on the back oi' the article of jewelry opposite each stone, but

' xing the stones requires a considerable degree of accuracy in the machining of the mould, so that each pin may bear accurately and without play against the point of the stone ,facing it, the pins I6 may also be arranged to be longitudinally slidable in guides .i1 in the upper part of the mould (Fig. and to be pressed against the stones by means of small springs i8. The springs I8 can of course be replaced by other elastic materials such as rubber. It would also be possible to hold down the pins and to press them against These members are preferably The the stones by means of compressed air. In this manner each individual stone is reliably held down and prevented from lbecoming displaced. 'I'he depressions in the lower part of the mould, which serve for the reception of the stons,'pref erably merge into outwardly leading passages I9 through which during the casting operation the air can escapefrom the interior of the mould (Figs. 1, 3, 14). z

As already mentioned, the main advantage of the invention resides on the one hand in the fact that the casting operation, and with it the total time required for the production of the articles of jewelry, is very considerably curtailed, and on the other hand in the fact that, through the possibility of introducing the embedding mass more rapidly, metals of low melting point can be employed as embedding mass, whereas hitherto it has only been possible to use for this purpose relatively light, Celluloid-like masses. The employment of metal as the embedding material in making the articles of jewelry suggests holding fastthe individual stones not, as when the Celluloid-like masses are used, by means of a beading running round the widest part of the stonebut solely by means of two (or more) short thin radial webs 2B (Figs. 16 and 17) which are formed from the in-iiowing metal during the casting operation by the provision of suitable recesses in the lower part of the mould.

When the embedding part has set, the moulds are opened and the articles of jewelry can be taken out in the finished state. If desired or necessary the latter may then be subjected to a further treatment, consisting in removing the burr from the cast parts, polishing in the usual manner, and varnishing, silverplatng, or goldplating.

I claim:

1. The method of setting ornamental stones each having a crown portion and a belt at the major base of the crown constituting that porti'on of the stone having the maximum cross section, which comprises seating a stone within a mold, in a. socket which covers the crown of the stone completely except for clamping surfaces adjacent the widest cross-section of the stone; and pouring a. molten plastic material into the mold while pressing the stone into the socket.

2. The method of setting ornamental stones each having a crown portion and a belt at the major base of the crown constituting that portion of the stone having the maximum cross section, which comprises seating a stone within a mold, in a socket which covers the crown of the stone completely except for clamping` surfaces adjacent the widest crosssection of the stone; and pouring a molten plastic material into the mold while pressing the stone into the socket by directing the stream of molten material ccaxially against the exposed end of the stone.

3. The method of setting ornamental stones each having a crown portion and a belt at the major base of theA crown constituting that portion of the stonehaving the maximum cross section, which comprises seating a vstone within a mold, in a socket which covers the crown of the stone completely except forv clamping surfaces adjacent the widest cross-section of the stone;

forcibly holding the stone in the socket; and pouring a molten plastic material into the mold while continuing to hold the stone in the socket.

4. The method of setting ,ornamental stones each having a crown portion and a belt at the major base of the crown constituting that portion of the stone havingthe maximum cross section, which comprises seating a stone within a mold, in a socket which covers the crown 4of the stone completely except for. clamping surfaces adjacent the widest .cross-section of the stone; placing over the stone a lamentous stabilizer in such a way that it presses upon the stone and holds it in its socket; and pouring a molten plastic material into the mol 5.,The method of setting ornamental stones each having a crown portion and a belt at the major base of the crown constituting that portion of the stone having the maximum cross.sec tion, which comprisesseating a stone within a mold. in a socket which covers the crown of the A stoneL completely except for clamping-surfaces,u

adjacent the widest cross-section of the stone;

l placing over the stone a fabric stabilizerI in such a way that it presses upon the stoneeand holds completely yexcept for clamping surfaces adja cent the widest cross-section of the stones; placing' over the stones parallel stabilizing thr/eads in such a waythat they press upon the stones and hold then. in their'sockets; and pouring'a molten plastic material into the mold. y

7. The method of setting ornamental stones each having a crown portion and a belt at the major base of the crown constituting that portion of the stone having they maximum cross section, which comprises seating a group "off the stones in one or more rows within a mold, in sockets which cover the crowns of the stones completelyV except for clamping surfaces' adJa- .cent the widestcross-section of the stones; placingloverthe stones parallel threads so that each stone is stabilized by a plurality 'of said threads in such a way that the threads press upon thel stones and hold them in their sockets; and pouring `a molten plastic material into the mold.

8. y'The method of setting ornamental stonesl each having a crown portion and a.- belt atthe maior base of the crown constituting that portion of the stone having the maximum cross tion, which comprises seating av group of `the stones in a plurality of rows in a mold, in sockets which cover the crowns of the stones completely except for .clamping surfacesadjacent A the widest'cross'ssection of the stones, the stones in the different -rows being relativelyl staggered and ar- I 'ranged so thatlines'can be drawn parallel to the .w tion ofthe stone havingthe maximum cross sec' tion, which comprisesseating a stone within a moldrin a socket which covers the crown of the -stone completely except fora plurality of r exposing smallstrips of the face of the stone radialtotheaxisofthe'stone; andpouringa arcane Y molten plastic material into the mold while press-l ing the stoneinto-the socket.

` 10. A mold for casting a setting for an orne? mental stone having a crown portion and a belt at the maior base of the crown constituting that portion of the stone having the maximum cross section, said mold having a'socket in its-cavity and an lx1-gate coaxial with said socket; said socket being adapted to cover the crown of the tion and a belt at the major base of the crown constituting that portion of the stone lhaving the maximum cross section, said incid having a Y socket for each stone in its cavity, a plurality of in-gate'srespectivelyl coaxial with said sockets. c

and a common distributing passage'` for al1 of said iin-gates; said sockets being adapted to cover' b.

the crowns of their respective stones completely;

except for clamping surfaces adjacent LVthe widestcross-sectlon of each stone. I

1,2. A-two-part mold for casting a setting for an ornamental stone having` a crown portion and a belt at the major base of the crown constituting that portion of' the stone having the maximum cross section, one part` of said mold having in its cavity a socket adapted to cover the crown f `ofthe stone completely, ewxcept for clamping surfaces adjacent the widest cross-section of the stone, the other part of said mold having an ingate; and a lamentous material clamped betweenl the two parts of the mold so as to bear upon the top of the stone in such a waythat the v iilamentous material passes upon the stone and holds itin its socket.,

13.A two-part'mold for casting a setting fo an ornamental stone having a crown portion and a belt at Vthe major base of the crown constitutingthat portion of the stone havingr the 'maxi-v mum cross section, 'one part of said mold having stone, the other part o f said mold having an ingate; and a fabric clamped between the two parts of the mold so as to bear upon the top of the stone in such a way that the fabric presses uponl the stone and holds it in its socket.

14. -A two-part mold for casting a setting for an ornamental stone having a crown portion and f a belt at the major base of the crown'constituting that portion of the stone having the maximum cross section, one part of said mold `having in its cavity a socket adapted to cover the crown of the stone completely', except for clamping surfaces adjacent the widest cross-section of the stone, the other part of said mold having an ingate; and a fabric` clamped between' the two parts ofthemoldsoastobearuponthetop of the stone in such a way thatthe fabric presses upon the stone and-holds it in itssocket, the dividing 

